Can you transplant garden mums in the fall? Yes, you can transplant garden mums in the fall, but it’s best to do so in early spring to give them ample time to establish before blooming. This guide will walk you through every step of mum care to ensure your chrysanthemums thrive and bring vibrant color to your garden for years to come.
Garden mums, or Chrysanthemum x morifolium, are beloved for their late-season splash of color. They are often purchased in full bloom in the fall and planted with the expectation they will return year after year. However, many gardeners are disappointed when their mums don’t survive the winter. Proper chrysanthemum planting and ongoing care are key to their long-term success. Let’s dive into the essentials of keeping your mums happy and healthy.
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Choosing the Right Location and Soil
The foundation of healthy mum growth begins with selecting the perfect spot in your garden and preparing the right mum soil.
Mum Sunlight Requirements
Chrysanthemums are sun-loving plants. They absolutely need full sun, which means at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day. More sun equals more blooms. While they can tolerate partial shade, flowering will be significantly reduced. Avoid planting mums in areas that are constantly shaded by trees or buildings. Morning sun is particularly beneficial as it helps dry dew from the leaves, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
Mum Soil Preferences
For optimal mum care, the mum soil should be well-draining. Chrysanthemums do not like wet feet; soggy soil can lead to root rot. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0-7.0) is ideal.
- Amend Heavy Clay Soil: If your soil is heavy clay, it’s crucial to improve drainage. Mix in compost, well-rotted manure, or coarse sand to break up the soil and increase aeration.
- Enhance Sandy Soil: For very sandy soil that drains too quickly, incorporate organic matter like compost or peat moss to help retain moisture and nutrients.
- Raised Beds: Planting in raised beds is an excellent option for areas with poor drainage. This ensures excess water can escape readily.
Chrysanthemum Planting: Getting Started Right
When you bring your garden mums home, whether in spring or fall, proper chrysanthemum planting is vital for their establishment.
When to Plant
- Spring Planting: The absolute best time to plant garden mums is in early spring, as soon as the soil can be worked and the danger of frost has passed. This allows the plants to develop a strong root system before the heat of summer and the onset of flowering in the fall.
- Fall Planting: While it’s possible to plant mums in the fall, it’s a riskier proposition. Aim to plant at least six weeks before your average first frost date. This gives them some time to settle in before winter dormancy. Avoid planting them closer to winter as they may not establish enough to survive.
Planting Steps
- Prepare the Hole: Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the mum’s root ball and just as deep.
- Loosen the Root Ball: Gently remove the mum from its nursery pot. If the roots are tightly wound (root-bound), gently loosen them with your fingers or a small trowel. This encourages outward growth.
- Position the Plant: Place the mum in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil.
- Backfill and Water: Fill the hole with the amended soil, gently firming it around the base of the plant to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly to settle the soil and ensure good contact with the roots.
- Spacing: Give your mums enough space to grow. Depending on the variety, space them 18-24 inches apart. Good air circulation helps prevent fungal diseases.
Essential Mum Watering and Fertilizing
Consistent and appropriate mum watering and mum fertilizing are cornerstones of healthy growth and abundant blooms.
Mum Watering Practices
Proper mum watering is crucial throughout the growing season.
- Consistency is Key: Mums prefer consistently moist soil, but not waterlogged. Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
- Watering Technique: Water at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry. This is especially important in the evening, as damp leaves overnight can encourage fungal issues.
- Frequency: Watering frequency will depend on your climate, soil type, and the weather. During hot, dry periods, you may need to water daily. In cooler, wetter weather, less frequent watering will be needed.
- Deep Watering: Encourage deep root growth by watering thoroughly rather than shallowly. This helps the plant become more drought-tolerant.
- Check the Soil: Don’t just water on a schedule. Stick your finger into the soil to check for moisture levels before watering.
Mum Fertilizing Schedule
While mums aren’t heavy feeders, they benefit from regular mum fertilizing to support vigorous growth and bloom production.
- Early Spring: Once new growth appears in spring, you can begin fertilizing. Use a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or one slightly higher in nitrogen to encourage leafy growth.
- Mid-Summer: As the plants begin to bud, switch to a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium (e.g., 5-10-10 or 10-20-20). This promotes flower development.
- Frequency: Fertilize about every 4-6 weeks throughout the growing season. Stop fertilizing about 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost to allow the plant to harden off for winter.
- Application: Follow the instructions on your fertilizer package carefully. Over-fertilizing can damage the plant.
The Art of Mum Pruning and Deadheading
Mum pruning and mum deadheading are essential for shaping your plants and maximizing their blooms.
Mum Pruning for Bushiness
To encourage a full, bushy plant with more blooms, you need to prune them throughout the growing season. This might seem counterintuitive, but it works wonders!
- Pinching: This is the most common form of mum pruning. Pinching involves removing the tip of the main stem. This encourages the plant to branch out from the leaf nodes below the pinch point.
- When to Pinch: Start pinching new growth in early spring when the plant is about 6-8 inches tall.
- Continued Pinching: Continue pinching every 2-3 weeks until mid-July. This will result in a compact, well-branched plant covered in flowers in the fall.
- Late Pinching: Avoid pinching after mid-July, as new growth won’t have enough time to mature and bloom before the first frost.
- Removing Spent Blooms (Deadheading): Regular mum deadheading is crucial. Once a flower fades, pinch or cut it off just above a set of leaves. This prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and encourages it to produce more flowers. This is also known as “deadheading.”
Cutting Back After Flowering
Once the blooming season is over and the flowers have faded, you can cut your mums back.
- Fall Cutback: After the first hard frost, or when the plants are completely finished blooming, cut the stems back to about 6 inches from the ground. This tidies up the garden and prepares the plant for winter.
Managing Mum Pests and Diseases
Even with the best mum care, your plants may occasionally encounter mum pests and diseases. Early detection and action are key.
Common Mum Pests
- Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects that cluster on new growth and buds, sucking sap. They can cause distorted growth.
- Control: Blast them off with a strong stream of water, introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs, or use insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Spider Mites: Tiny arachnids that thrive in dry conditions. They spin fine webs and cause stippling on leaves.
- Control: Increase humidity around the plants, wash leaves regularly, or use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
- Leafhoppers: Small, wedge-shaped insects that jump when disturbed. They feed on plant sap, causing yellowing or browning of leaves.
- Control: Similar to aphids, water sprays and insecticidal soaps are effective.
- Thrips: Tiny, slender insects that rasp plant tissue and suck sap. They cause silvery streaks on leaves and distorted flowers.
- Control: Sticky traps can help monitor and catch thrips. Insecticidal soaps, neem oil, or spinosad can be used.
Common Mum Diseases
- Powdery Mildew: A common fungal disease that appears as white, powdery patches on leaves and stems, especially in humid conditions with poor air circulation.
- Prevention: Choose disease-resistant varieties, ensure good air circulation by spacing plants properly, and water at the base of the plant.
- Control: Remove affected leaves, improve air circulation, and use a fungicide specifically labeled for powdery mildew.
- Leaf Spot: Various fungi can cause leaf spot diseases, resulting in brown or black spots on the leaves.
- Prevention: Remove fallen leaves and debris from around the plants, as these can harbor fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering.
- Control: Remove affected leaves and apply a fungicide if the problem is severe.
- Root Rot: Caused by overwatering or poorly draining mum soil, root rot leads to wilting, yellowing leaves, and eventual plant death.
- Prevention: Ensure excellent drainage and avoid overwatering.
- Control: If caught early, you may be able to repot the plant in fresh, well-draining soil. However, severe root rot is often fatal.
Overwintering Garden Mums for Next Year’s Blooms
A significant part of mum care involves preparing them for winter. Overwintering garden mums is key to enjoying them year after year. Many mums sold as annuals are actually perennial and can survive the winter with proper care.
Why Mums May Not Survive Winter
- Planting Too Late: Mums planted in the fall haven’t had enough time to establish a strong root system before winter.
- Poor Drainage: Sitting in soggy soil during winter freeze-thaw cycles can heave the plants out of the ground or cause root rot.
- Harsh Winters: Extreme cold, fluctuating temperatures, and lack of snow cover can damage the crown of the plant.
- Lack of Mulch: The insulating layer of mulch protects the roots from harsh temperature swings.
Methods for Overwintering Garden Mums
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Mulching: This is the simplest and most effective method for hardy varieties in many climates.
- When to Mulch: After the ground has frozen lightly (usually after a few hard frosts), apply a thick layer (4-6 inches) of mulch around the base of the plants. Straw, shredded leaves, or pine needles are good choices.
- Benefits: Mulch insulates the roots from extreme temperature fluctuations, preventing heaving and protecting against frost damage.
- Spring Removal: In early spring, as soon as new growth begins, gently remove the mulch to prevent rot and allow the soil to warm up.
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Transplanting to a Protected Area: If you live in a region with very harsh winters or have a particularly prized variety, you might consider digging them up and storing them.
- Digging Up: In late fall, after the first frost but before the ground freezes hard, carefully dig up the entire plant, including as much of the root ball as possible.
- Storage: You can plant them in pots filled with moist potting soil and store them in an unheated garage, basement, or cold frame. Keep them cool (35-45°F) and just moist enough to prevent the roots from drying out completely.
- Check Periodically: Check the roots periodically throughout the winter and add a little moisture if they feel dry.
- Replanting: In early spring, once the danger of frost has passed, replant them in their permanent garden location.
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Layering (For Milder Climates): In areas with milder winters, you can protect mums by laying them down.
- Bend and Cover: In late fall, after the first frost, bend the mum stems down to the ground. You can secure them with garden staples. Cover the entire plant with a layer of mulch, straw, or evergreen boughs.
- Benefits: This method helps protect the crown of the plant from drying winds and light frosts.
Dividing Mums for More Plants
Every few years, usually in early spring, your mums will benefit from division. This rejuvenates the plants and provides you with more blooms!
Why Divide Mums?
- Rejuvenation: As mums grow, the centers of the clumps can become woody and less productive, while the outer edges continue to grow vigorously. Division helps to refresh the plant.
- More Blooms: Dividing encourages new growth and can lead to more prolific blooming.
- Improved Health: Overcrowded plants are more susceptible to pests and diseases due to poor air circulation and competition for resources.
How to Divide Mums
- Timing: The best time to divide mums is in early spring, as soon as new growth emerges.
- Digging Up: Carefully dig up the entire clump of mums.
- Separating: Gently pull the clump apart into smaller sections, each with a healthy root system and a few growing shoots. You can use your hands, or for tougher clumps, a spade or sharp knife. Discard any dead or woody sections.
- Replanting: Replant the divisions in prepared garden beds with amended mum soil. Ensure each division is planted at the correct depth, with the crown just at the soil surface. Space them appropriately for their mature size.
- Watering: Water the newly planted divisions thoroughly.
- Pinching: Remember to begin pinching the new growth on the divided plants to encourage bushiness.
Frequently Asked Questions About Mum Care
Here are some common questions gardeners have about mum care:
Q1: Will my mums survive the winter if I bought them in bloom in October?
A: It depends on the variety and your climate. Mums purchased in late fall are often bred for quick blooming and may not be as hardy. If you want them to return, plant them in spring and provide good overwintering garden mums care. If you do plant them in fall, ensure excellent drainage and apply mulch after the ground freezes.
Q2: My mums are getting leggy and have fewer flowers. What can I do?
A: This is a classic sign that your mums need dividing and perhaps a different mum pruning strategy. Divide them in early spring, and ensure you are pinching them back until mid-July to encourage branching and more blooms.
Q3: Can I plant mums in pots?
A: Yes, you can grow mums in pots! Use a good quality potting mix with excellent drainage. Keep them well-watered, as potted plants dry out faster than those in the ground. For overwintering garden mums in pots, it’s essential to protect them from harsh winter conditions, as their roots are more exposed. Move potted mums to an unheated garage or shed for the winter.
Q4: How do I get my mums to bloom all at once in fall?
A: The timing of mum pruning (specifically, pinching) is the key. If you stop pinching by mid-July, you will get a spectacular mass bloom in the fall. Mums are photoperiodic, meaning they respond to the length of the day; as days shorten in fall, they are triggered to bloom.
Q5: Are there any specific mum soil amendments that are better than others?
A: Compost is excellent for almost any mum soil as it improves drainage, aeration, and fertility. For heavier soils, adding perlite or coarse sand can also significantly improve drainage.
By following these detailed guidelines for mum care, you can ensure your chrysanthemums are healthy, vibrant, and a beautiful part of your garden for many seasons to come. Happy gardening!