How To Redo Grass Lawn: Your Guide

Wondering how to redo your grass lawn? Redoing your lawn involves several key steps, from removing old grass and preparing the soil to choosing the right grass type and proper seeding or sodding techniques, followed by dedicated care for new growth.

A tired, patchy, or weed-infested lawn can bring down the curb appeal of your entire home. But don’t despair! With the right approach, you can transform your lawn into a lush, green oasis. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of lawn renovation, whether you’re reseeding a lawn, replacing grass, or starting from scratch.

Why Redo Your Lawn?

Before diving into the “how,” let’s explore the “why.” Common reasons for undertaking a lawn renovation include:

Poor Grass Health: Disease, insect damage, or nutrient deficiencies can leave your lawn looking sad.
Weed Infestation: Overrun by weeds, your lawn loses its aesthetic appeal and competitive edge.
Uneven Terrain: Drainage issues or bumpy surfaces can make mowing difficult and create standing water.
Outdated Grass Type: The existing grass might not be suited to your climate, soil type, or intended use (e.g., high-traffic areas).
Wear and Tear: High-traffic areas, pet activity, or excessive shade can degrade even the healthiest lawn over time.
Desire for a New Look: Sometimes, you just want a fresh, vibrant green carpet for your yard.

Step 1: Assess Your Current Lawn

Before you start digging, take a good look at what you have. This assessment will help you determine the best course of action.

Identifying Lawn Problems

Weed Type and Density: Are they broadleaf weeds, grassy weeds, or a mix? How widespread are they?
Grass Species: Do you know what type of grass you have? This influences the best time to reseed and the types of grass to choose for renovation.
Soil Condition: Is it compacted, sandy, clay-heavy, or lacking nutrients? You can get a soil test from your local extension office.
Sunlight Exposure: How much sun does each part of your lawn receive? This is crucial for selecting the right grass seed.
Drainage: Are there areas where water consistently pools?

Step 2: Clearing the Old Lawn

This is a critical step in replacing grass. You need to remove the existing turf, weeds, and debris to create a clean slate for new growth.

Methods for Removing Old Grass

There are several effective methods, each with its pros and cons:

Sod Cutter Rental

How it works: A sod cutter slices under the grass and roots, allowing you to roll up the sod in strips.
Pros: Quickest method for large areas.
Cons: Labor-intensive to haul away the sod. Can be expensive to rent.
Best for: Large lawns with established turf.

Tilling

How it works: A rototiller churns up the soil and grass.
Pros: Mixes organic matter into the soil and breaks up compaction.
Cons: Can spread weed seeds and rhizomes deeper into the soil, leading to future problems. May not be ideal if soil is already too loose.
Best for: Areas with compacted soil where you also want to improve soil structure.

Smothering (Sheet Mulching)

How it works: Cover the existing lawn with a layer of cardboard or newspaper, then top with compost or mulch. The grass and weeds underneath will die over several weeks or months.
Pros: Eco-friendly, no heavy machinery needed, improves soil over time.
Cons: Slowest method, requires patience and time.
Best for: Those with time on their hands who want to improve soil health simultaneously.

Chemical Killers

How it works: Apply a non-selective herbicide to kill all existing vegetation.
Pros: Effective for thorough removal.
Cons: Can be harmful to the environment and pets if not used carefully. Requires waiting time before replanting.
Best for: When a complete kill is desired and other methods are not feasible. Always follow label instructions precisely.

Important Note: If you’re using a chemical approach, read the product label carefully. Many herbicides require a waiting period before you can reseed or sod to avoid harming new grass.

Step 3: Preparing the Soil for Grass

This is arguably the most crucial step for a healthy, long-lasting lawn. Good soil is the foundation of great grass.

Key Soil Preparation Tasks

Debris Removal: After removing the old turf, rake the area thoroughly to remove any remaining grass clumps, rocks, roots, and debris.
Soil Testing: As mentioned earlier, a soil test will tell you the pH and nutrient levels of your soil. This is vital for preparing soil for grass correctly.
- pH Adjustment: Most lawn grasses prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (around 6.0-7.0). If your pH is too high or too low, you’ll need to amend it.
  - To lower pH (make more acidic): Add elemental sulfur.
  - To raise pH (make more alkaline): Add lime.
- Nutrient Amendment: Based on your soil test results, you might need to add specific nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium.
Loosening Compacted Soil: If your soil is compacted (common in new construction or heavy clay soils), you’ll need to loosen it.
- Aeration: Using a core aerator is highly recommended. It pulls out small plugs of soil, allowing air, water, and nutrients to penetrate better.
- Tilling: As mentioned before, tilling can break up compaction but be mindful of weed seed spread.
Adding Organic Matter: Incorporate compost, well-rotted manure, or other organic materials into the top 4-6 inches of soil. This improves soil structure, water retention, and nutrient availability.
Grading and Leveling: Rake the soil to create a smooth, even surface. Fill in any low spots and remove high spots to prevent water pooling and make mowing easier. A slight slope away from your house is ideal for drainage.
Final Rake: Give the soil a final raking to create a fine, crumbly seedbed.

Step 4: Choosing Your New Grass

Selecting the right grass type is essential for a successful lawn, especially when reseeding a lawn or starting anew. Consider your climate, sunlight, soil type, and how you’ll use the lawn.

Cool-Season Grasses

These grasses thrive in cooler climates with cold winters and moderate summers. They typically go dormant in extreme heat.

Kentucky Bluegrass: Forms a dense, beautiful sod. Tolerates cold and wear. Needs full sun and good moisture.
Perennial Ryegrass: Quick to germinate and establish. Good for high-traffic areas and overseeding. Tolerates moderate shade. Can be less cold-hardy than bluegrass.
Fine Fescues: Excellent for shady areas and low-maintenance lawns. Good drought tolerance once established. Varieties include Creeping Red, Chewings, and Hard Fescue.
Tall Fescue: Deep roots make it very drought-tolerant and good for hot summers. More coarse texture than other cool-season grasses. Tolerates some shade.

Warm-Season Grasses

These grasses thrive in hot climates with mild winters. They go dormant and turn brown in freezing temperatures.

Bermuda Grass: Very drought and heat tolerant. Forms a dense, aggressive turf. Needs full sun. Can be invasive.
Zoysia Grass: Slow to establish but forms a dense, weed-resistant turf. Good heat and drought tolerance. Can tolerate some shade.
Centipede Grass: Low-maintenance, shade-tolerant grass. Prefers acidic soil. Slow to establish and not very wear-tolerant.
St. Augustine Grass: Tolerates shade and salt spray. Coarser texture. Best in warmer, humid climates. Can be susceptible to chinch bugs.

Pro Tip: Consider a grass seed blend designed for your specific region and conditions. Blends often combine different grass types to offer a more resilient and adaptable lawn.

Step 5: Seeding or Sodding

Now it’s time to put down the new grass. You have two main options: lawn seeding techniques or sod installation.

Lawn Seeding Techniques

This is generally the more budget-friendly option and allows for a wider variety of grass types.

When to Seed Your Lawn

The best time to seed lawn depends on your grass type.

Cool-Season Grasses: Fall is ideal (late August to early October in most regions). The soil is still warm enough for germination, and the air is cooler, reducing stress on new seedlings. Spring (March to May) is the second-best option, but weeds can be a major competitor.
Warm-Season Grasses: Late spring to early summer is the best time to seed lawn. The soil temperature needs to be consistently warm for germination.

The Seeding Process

Seed Distribution: Use a broadcast spreader or drop spreader for even application. Follow the recommended seeding rate for your chosen grass type (check the seed bag).
Raking: Lightly rake the seeds into the prepared soil. You want to ensure good seed-to-soil contact without burying the seeds too deeply. A depth of about 1/8 to 1/4 inch is usually sufficient.
Rolling (Optional but Recommended): Lightly roll the seeded area with a lawn roller filled with water. This firms the soil and ensures good seed-to-soil contact. Don’t over-compact the soil.
Topdressing (Optional): A thin layer of compost or peat moss can help retain moisture and protect the seeds.

Sod Installation

Sod provides an instant lawn, which is a significant advantage.

When to Install Sod

Sod can be installed almost any time of year when the ground isn’t frozen. However, avoiding extreme heat or drought is best. Spring and fall are generally optimal for sod installation.

The Sodding Process

Preparation: The soil preparation steps (clearing, testing, amending, leveling) are the same as for seeding.
Laying Sod: Start laying sod along the longest straight edge of your lawn (e.g., a sidewalk or driveway). Lay the strips tightly together, ensuring no gaps. Stagger the seams like bricks in a wall.
Trimming: Use a sharp knife or sod cutter to trim sod to fit edges and curves.
Rolling: After laying, roll the sod with a lightweight roller to press it into the soil and remove air pockets.
Watering: Water immediately and thoroughly after installation.

Step 6: Caring for Your New Lawn

Whether you seeded or sodded, the first few weeks are crucial for establishing a healthy new lawn.

Watering a New Lawn

Proper watering a new lawn is key to successful establishment.

Seeded Lawns: Keep the seedbed consistently moist, but not waterlogged. This may mean light watering several times a day for the first week or two, especially in warm or windy weather. As seedlings grow, gradually reduce the frequency and increase the duration of watering to encourage deeper root growth.
Sodded Lawns: Water immediately and deeply after installation to settle the sod. Keep the sod moist for the first 1-2 weeks, watering deeply once a day. Once the sod has rooted (you can test by trying to lift a corner), you can gradually transition to less frequent, deeper watering.

When to water: Water early in the morning to minimize evaporation and allow the grass to dry before nightfall, which helps prevent fungal diseases.

Fertilizing New Grass

For Seeded Lawns: Many grass seed mixes contain a starter fertilizer, which provides essential nutrients for initial growth. If yours doesn’t, or if your soil test indicated deficiencies, apply a starter fertilizer (higher in phosphorus) about 4-6 weeks after germination, or according to product instructions.
For Sodded Lawns: Sod is usually fertilized before it’s harvested. However, you can apply a light application of a starter fertilizer a few weeks after installation if you notice slow growth or pale color.

Fertilizing new grass should be done carefully. Over-fertilizing can burn tender new roots.

Mowing Your New Lawn

Seeded Lawns: Wait until the grass reaches about 3 inches in height. Mow with a sharp mower blade, and only remove the top third of the grass blade. Do not cut it too short. Leave the clippings on the lawn to act as a natural mulch.
Sodded Lawns: You can usually mow sod once it has rooted and started to grow. Mow at a higher setting initially.

Weed Control

New lawns are vulnerable to weeds.

For Seeded Lawns: Avoid using broadleaf weed killers until the grass is well-established (usually after 3-4 mowings). Hand-pulling is a good option for scattered weeds.
For Sodded Lawns: Once the sod is rooted, you can treat weeds carefully. Spot treatments are often best for new sod.

Overseeding a Lawn: A Less Invasive Option

If your lawn is patchy but not entirely gone, overseeding a lawn is a great way to thicken it up and improve its overall appearance and health. This is a form of lawn renovation that’s less disruptive than a complete overhaul.

When to Overseed

The best time to seed lawn for overseeding is the same as for new seeding: fall for cool-season grasses and late spring/early summer for warm-season grasses. Fall is generally preferred for cool-season grasses as it allows the new seed to establish before the stress of summer heat.

How to Overseed

Mow Short: Mow your existing lawn at a lower height than usual.
Aerate: Aerating the lawn first is highly recommended. This creates channels for the new seeds to reach the soil.
Remove Debris: Rake the lawn to remove any thatch or debris.
Apply Seed: Use a spreader to apply your chosen grass seed evenly over the lawn. Follow recommended seeding rates, often slightly higher than for a completely bare lawn.
Rake In: Lightly rake the seeds into the existing turf to ensure good seed-to-soil contact.
Fertilize: Apply a starter fertilizer designed for fertilizing new grass or overseeding.
Water: Keep the area consistently moist, as you would for newly seeded areas.

Fertilizing New Grass: A Closer Look

Fertilizing new grass requires a different approach than established lawns.

Starter Fertilizers: These are formulated with a higher percentage of phosphorus (the middle number in N-P-K ratios), which is crucial for root development.
Timing: For seeded lawns, apply starter fertilizer at the time of seeding or shortly after germination. For sod, wait a few weeks until it starts to grow.
Application: Apply fertilizer at the recommended rate to avoid burning the new grass. Water the fertilizer in according to product instructions.

Watering a New Lawn: Best Practices

Consistent moisture is critical for germination and establishment.

Seedlings: Keep the top 1-2 inches of soil moist. This might mean watering multiple times a day.
Established Seedlings/Sod: Gradually increase the watering intervals and depth. Aim to water deeply (about 1 inch of water) once or twice a week, allowing the soil to dry slightly between waterings. This encourages deep root growth.
Check Moisture: Stick a screwdriver or soil probe into the ground. If it goes in easily, the soil is moist. If it’s hard to push, it’s time to water.

Maintaining Your Newly Redone Lawn

Once your new lawn is established (usually after about 4-6 weeks, or when it can withstand mowing without tearing), you can transition to a regular lawn care schedule.

Regular Fertilization

Cool-Season Grasses: Typically fertilized in the fall and spring.
Warm-Season Grasses: Fertilized in late spring and summer.
Always follow the recommendations for your specific grass type and climate.

Proper Mowing

Mow High: Generally, mowing at a higher setting (2.5-3.5 inches for most cool-season grasses) promotes deeper roots and a healthier lawn.
Sharp Blades: Keep your mower blades sharp to ensure a clean cut, which reduces stress on the grass.
Don’t Remove Too Much: Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing.

Watering Established Lawns

Deep and Infrequent: Water deeply (1 inch per week, including rainfall) and less often to encourage deep root systems.
Water Wisely: Water in the early morning. Adjust watering based on weather conditions.

Weed and Pest Management

Continue to monitor your lawn for weeds and pests. Early detection and intervention are key. Healthy, dense turf is the best defense against weeds.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: How long does it take for a newly seeded lawn to grow in?
A1: Depending on the grass type and conditions, you should see germination within 7-21 days. It typically takes 4-6 weeks for the grass to be established enough for moderate foot traffic and regular mowing. A fully mature, dense lawn can take a year or more.

Q2: Can I lay sod over my old lawn?
A2: While it’s sometimes suggested, it’s generally not recommended. You’ll likely encounter problems with drainage, disease, and weed competition as the old grass and thatch decompose underneath the sod. It’s best to remove the old lawn first.

Q3: What is the difference between reseeding and overseeding?
A3: Reseeding a lawn typically refers to starting over, often after removing the old turf. Overseeding a lawn involves spreading new grass seed over an existing lawn to fill in thin spots and improve density.

Q4: How much water does a new lawn need?
A4: Newly seeded areas need consistent light watering to keep the seedbed moist, potentially several times a day. Newly sodded areas need deep watering immediately and then daily for the first week or two. Once established, lawns need about 1 inch of water per week, applied deeply and infrequently.

Q5: When should I fertilize my new lawn?
A5: For seeded lawns, it’s best to use a starter fertilizer at the time of seeding or when the grass is about an inch tall. For sod, wait a few weeks after installation until you see active growth. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can damage new grass.

Q6: My new lawn has bald spots. What should I do?
A6: Bald spots in a new lawn can be due to uneven seed distribution, poor seed-to-soil contact, inconsistent watering, or nutrient deficiencies. You can try overseeding the bare spots after the initial establishment period, ensuring good soil contact and consistent moisture.

Redoing your grass lawn is a rewarding project that can significantly enhance your home’s appearance. By following these steps, from clearing the old to preparing the soil and choosing the right grass, you’ll be well on your way to a beautiful, healthy lawn. Remember that patience and consistent care are vital for success.