What is tall fescue and can I remove it from my lawn? Yes, tall fescue is a common, hardy grass that can sometimes be unwanted in a lawn primarily composed of other grass types. Fortunately, there are several effective methods to remove it.
Tall fescue ( Festuca arundinacea) is a popular, durable, cool-season grass known for its deep root system and tolerance to a range of conditions. While it’s a great choice for many lawns, there are times when you might want to remove it. Perhaps it’s invading a lawn dominated by fine fescues, or maybe you’re undertaking a complete lawn renovation and want a different grass species. Whatever your reason, getting rid of tall fescue requires a strategic approach.
This article will guide you through five effective ways to tackle unwanted tall fescue, from gentle persuasion to more direct intervention. We’ll cover everything from selective herbicide use to manual removal and preparing your lawn for a fresh start.
1. Manual Removal: The Hands-On Approach
For small patches or isolated clumps of tall fescue, manual removal is a surprisingly effective and eco-friendly method. It’s labor-intensive but provides immediate results with no risk of damaging desirable grasses nearby.
Tools You’ll Need:
- Garden Fork or Spade: For loosening the soil around the fescue roots.
- Weeding Tool or Dandelion Puller: For gripping and extracting individual plants.
- Gloves: To protect your hands.
- Wheelbarrow or Bucket: To collect the removed grass and roots.
The Process:
- Water the Area: Water the soil around the tall fescue clumps thoroughly a day or two before you plan to remove them. Moist soil makes it much easier to pull out the entire root system.
- Loosen the Soil: Use a garden fork or spade to gently loosen the soil around the base of the tall fescue clump. Insert the tool a few inches away from the plant and lever it to break up the soil.
- Grasp and Pull: Get a firm grip on the base of the tall fescue plant, as close to the soil as possible. Pull steadily upwards. If you encounter resistance, try wiggling the plant gently or use your weeding tool to help loosen it further. The goal is to remove as much of the root system as possible.
- Inspect and Remove Remaining Roots: After pulling out the main clump, inspect the hole. Any remaining roots or rhizomes can regrow. Use your weeding tool to dig out any visible root fragments.
- Dispose Properly: Place the removed fescue in a bag or wheelbarrow. Avoid composting it if you want to prevent any chance of it resprouting.
- Repair the Spot: Fill the hole with good quality topsoil. You can then immediately overseed the area with your desired grass seed or lay sod.
Tips for Success:
- Timing is Key: Perform manual removal when the soil is moist but not waterlogged.
- Be Thorough: Even small root fragments left behind can lead to regrowth.
- Patience Pays Off: This method is best for smaller infestations. For larger areas, consider other methods.
2. Non-Selective Weed Killers: A Broad-Spectrum Solution
When manual removal isn’t practical for larger areas, a non-selective weed killer can be your next best option. These products, often containing glyphosate, kill any plant they come into contact with. This means you’ll need to be precise to avoid harming your desirable lawn grasses.
How to Use Non-Selective Weed Killers Effectively:
- Identify Your Target: Clearly identify the areas of tall fescue you want to eliminate.
- Choose the Right Product: Look for glyphosate-based herbicides. Read the label carefully for application instructions and safety precautions.
- Protect Desirable Grasses: This is crucial!
- Shielding: Use cardboard or plastic shields to protect the surrounding lawn from overspray.
- Spot Treatment: Apply the weed killer directly to the tall fescue leaves using a sponge applicator or a pump sprayer with a cone nozzle. Aim for a fine mist that coats the leaves.
- Application Timing:
- Apply when the tall fescue is actively growing, typically in the fall or spring.
- Avoid windy conditions to prevent drift.
- Ensure no rain is expected for at least 24 hours after application.
- Wait and Observe: Allow several days to a week for the weed killer to take effect. The tall fescue should begin to turn brown and die.
- Remove Dead Fescue: Once the fescue is completely dead, rake it out. You can then prepare the soil for re-seeding or sodding.
- Follow-Up: Monitor the area for any regrowth and reapply if necessary.
Important Considerations:
- Environmental Impact: Always follow label directions to minimize environmental impact.
- Pets and Children: Keep pets and children away from the treated area until it is dry.
- Reseeding: After applying a glyphosate product, you will need to wait for a specific period (check the product label) before reseeding. Glyphosate can inhibit the germination of new grass seeds.
3. Selective Herbicides: Targeting Fescue with Precision
Using a selective herbicide is a more advanced approach that aims to kill tall fescue without harming other types of grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass or fine fescues. This method requires careful grass identification to ensure you choose a product that is safe for your desired lawn species.
How Selective Herbicides Work:
Selective herbicides are designed to target specific plant types. For cool-season grass control that targets fescue, you’ll be looking for products that can distinguish between different fescue species or target broadleaf weeds while leaving your desired turf intact. However, targeting one cool-season grass within another can be tricky.
Choosing the Right Selective Herbicide:
- Research Your Lawn: Before purchasing any herbicide, you must know what type of grass you have in the rest of your lawn.
- Product Labels are Key: Read herbicide labels meticulously. They will list which grasses the product is safe for and which weeds it controls.
- Consult Local Experts: Your local extension office or garden center can provide recommendations for selective herbicides effective against tall fescue in your specific region and suitable for your lawn type.
Application Steps:
- Timing is Critical: Apply selective herbicides when the tall fescue is actively growing and before it sets seed. Fall is often the best time for controlling cool-season grasses.
- Follow Label Instructions Precisely: This cannot be stressed enough. Incorrect application can damage your desirable turf.
- Spot Treat: Even with selective herbicides, it’s often best to spot treat the tall fescue areas to minimize exposure to your main lawn.
- Watering: Some selective herbicides require the soil to be moist for activation, while others work best on dry foliage. Always check the product instructions.
- Multiple Applications: You may need multiple applications, spaced several weeks apart, to effectively control tall fescue with a selective herbicide.
Cool-Season Grass Control Challenges:
It’s important to note that controlling tall fescue within other cool-season grasses can be challenging. Many herbicides that target tall fescue might also harm fine fescues or other desirable cool-season varieties. Therefore, thorough research and precise application are paramount.
4. Lawn Renovation: A Fresh Start
If tall fescue has become a significant problem, or if you’re aiming for a complete transformation of your lawn, a full lawn renovation is often the most effective solution. This involves removing the existing turf and starting anew.
Steps for a Complete Lawn Renovation:
- Kill Existing Turf:
- Herbicidal Approach: Use a non-selective weed killer like glyphosate to kill all existing vegetation. This is the most common and efficient method. Apply it thoroughly, ensuring all tall fescue is treated. Wait the recommended time for the herbicide to break down in the soil before proceeding.
- Mechanical Approach (Less Common): For a truly chemical-free renovation, you can use sod cutters to physically remove the existing turf. This is physically demanding and more expensive but guarantees complete removal.
- Remove Debris: Rake or use a leaf blower to clear away all the dead grass, roots, and debris.
- Soil Preparation:
- Till or Loosen Soil: Loosen the top 4-6 inches of soil using a tiller or by broadforking. This improves drainage and provides a good seedbed.
- Amend Soil: Test your soil’s pH and nutrient levels. Add compost, topsoil, or other amendments as needed to create a healthy environment for new grass.
- Level the Area: Rake the soil smooth, removing any large rocks or clumps.
- Overseeding or Sodding:
- Overseeding: Choose a high-quality seed mix of your desired grass species. Spread the seed evenly across the prepared soil. Follow the seeding rates recommended on the seed bag.
- Sodding: If you prefer instant results, lay down sod of your chosen grass.
- Initial Care:
- Watering: Water the newly seeded or sodded area regularly to keep the top inch of soil consistently moist. Avoid overwatering, which can wash away seeds.
- Fertilizing: Apply a starter fertilizer to promote strong root development.
- Mowing: Mow when the new grass reaches about 3 inches in height, never removing more than one-third of the blade at a time.
Benefits of Lawn Renovation:
- Complete Control: Eliminates tall fescue and other unwanted weeds.
- Improved Lawn Health: Allows for soil amendment and creating the ideal conditions for new growth.
- Aesthetic Appeal: Results in a uniform, healthy lawn.
5. Preventing Fescue Spread: Long-Term Lawn Health
Once you’ve tackled existing tall fescue, implementing strategies for preventing fescue spread is crucial for maintaining a healthy, uniform lawn. This involves good lawn care practices that promote the vigor of your desired grass species and discourage invasive ones.
Key Prevention Strategies:
- Healthy, Dense Turf: The best defense against any weed, including tall fescue, is a thick, healthy lawn.
- Proper Mowing: Mow at the correct height for your grass type. Taller grass shades the soil, preventing weed seeds from germinating.
- Adequate Watering: Water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth.
- Appropriate Fertilization: Feed your lawn with the right nutrients at the right times.
- Regular Aeration: Aeration involves creating small holes in the soil, which helps alleviate soil compaction. This allows for better air, water, and nutrient penetration to the roots of your desirable grass, strengthening it against competition.
- Dethatching: Dethatching removes the layer of dead grass and organic matter (thatch) that builds up between the soil and the green blades of grass. An excessive thatch layer can harbor diseases and prevent water and nutrients from reaching the roots. Removing it promotes healthier turf that can better resist weeds.
- Overseeding: Regularly overseeding your lawn, especially in the fall, helps fill in any thin spots and maintain a dense turf. This reduces the opportunity for weeds like tall fescue to establish.
- Monitor for New Growth: Keep an eye out for any new fescue shoots or clumps. The sooner you catch and remove them, the easier it will be to keep them from spreading. Early manual removal is highly effective here.
- Control Edges: Tall fescue can spread aggressively. Regularly trim the edges of your lawn where it meets sidewalks, driveways, or garden beds to prevent it from creeping into unwanted areas.
By combining these prevention strategies with your chosen removal method, you can enjoy a healthier, more attractive lawn for years to come.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Will a regular lawn fertilizer kill tall fescue?
A1: No, a standard lawn fertilizer is designed to nourish grass and will not kill tall fescue. In fact, it might even help it grow stronger. You need a specific weed killer or selective herbicide for removal.
Q2: Can I use a weed killer on my lawn in the summer?
A2: It’s generally best to avoid applying most herbicides, especially non-selective ones, during the heat of summer. High temperatures can stress your desirable lawn grasses and increase the risk of damage. Fall and spring are typically the best times for herbicide application for cool-season grass control. Always check the product label for specific temperature guidelines.
Q3: How do I know if the grass in my lawn is tall fescue?
A3: Proper grass identification is key. Tall fescue typically has broad, dark green leaves with a visible V-shape at the tip. The leaf blades are often coarse and can feel somewhat stiff. It tends to grow in clumps rather than spreading by rhizomes or stolons like some other grasses. You can often distinguish it by its clump-forming growth habit and the texture of its leaves.
Q4: Is it better to reseed or sod after removing tall fescue?
A4: This depends on your budget, timeline, and desired results. Overseeding is more cost-effective but takes longer to establish. Sodding provides an instant, mature lawn but is more expensive. Both are viable options after a complete lawn renovation or spot removal.
Q5: How often should I aerate and dethatch my lawn?
A5: For most lawns, aeration and dethatching are recommended once a year. The best time to do this is typically in the fall, during the active growing season for cool-season grasses. This helps prepare the lawn for overseeding and promotes overall health.
Q6: Can I remove tall fescue with organic methods?
A6: Yes, manual removal is the most effective organic method. You can also try smothering small patches with black plastic or cardboard for several weeks, though this can be slow and may not kill the entire root system. While there are organic herbicides, their effectiveness against established tall fescue can be limited.
Q7: What are the signs that my lawn needs dethatching?
A7: If you can’t easily see the soil surface when parting the grass blades, or if the thatch layer feels spongy and is more than ½ inch thick, it’s likely time for dethatching.
Q8: How can I prevent tall fescue from spreading into my flower beds?
A8: Creating a clear edge between your lawn and flower beds using a spade or an edger can help prevent preventing fescue spread. Regular trimming of the lawn edges is also beneficial.
Q9: Is it possible to get rid of tall fescue without killing my entire lawn?
A9: Yes, if your lawn is primarily composed of a different grass type and the tall fescue is only in isolated patches, manual removal or careful spot treatment with a selective herbicide can be effective. However, if your lawn is a mix of various cool-season grasses, it can be challenging to target tall fescue specifically without affecting other desirable grasses.
Q10: When is the best time of year to undertake a lawn renovation to remove tall fescue?
A10: Fall is generally the best time for lawn renovation in regions with cool-season grasses. The cooler temperatures and increased moisture in the fall provide ideal conditions for new grass seed to germinate and establish strong root systems before winter. Spring is a secondary option, but you’ll need to be more vigilant with watering during the warmer months.