What is fescue? Fescue is a type of grass known for its durability and attractive appearance, making it a popular choice for lawns. Can I plant fescue in shade? Yes, many fescue varieties are quite shade-tolerant. Who is fescue good for? Fescue is excellent for homeowners seeking a robust, low-maintenance lawn that can withstand varying conditions.
Planting a fescue lawn can transform your outdoor space into a lush, green carpet. Whether you’re starting from scratch with bare soil or looking to improve an existing lawn through overseeding, this guide will walk you through the entire process. We’ll cover everything from choosing the best fescue seed to ensuring its healthy fescue establishment and ongoing fescue lawn care.
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Selecting the Right Fescue Seed
The first step to a beautiful fescue lawn is choosing the right fescue seed for your climate and needs. There are several types of fescue, each with unique characteristics.
Tall Fescue (Festuca arundinacea)
Tall fescue is the most common type of fescue grown in the United States. It’s known for its deep root system, which makes it very drought-tolerant and able to withstand heat and wear. Tall fescue also offers good shade tolerance, making it a versatile choice for many situations.
- Pros: Excellent drought tolerance, good wear resistance, stays green longer in dry spells, good shade tolerance, relatively easy to grow.
- Cons: Can go dormant in extreme cold, can be prone to grubs if not managed, some older varieties can be clumpy.
- Best For: Most of the United States, especially transition zones where temperatures fluctuate.
Fine Fescue (Festuca rubra)
Fine fescues, which include varieties like creeping red fescue, chewings fescue, and hard fescue, are prized for their fine texture and ability to thrive in shady and cooler conditions. They don’t tolerate heavy traffic as well as tall fescue but are excellent for low-maintenance, aesthetically pleasing lawns.
- Pros: Excellent shade tolerance, good cold hardiness, fine texture, low maintenance, requires less fertilizer and water once established.
- Cons: Poor drought tolerance, susceptible to disease in hot, humid weather, can’t handle heavy foot traffic.
- Best For: Shady areas, cooler climates, and low-traffic lawns.
Fine Fescue Blends
Often, fescue seed is sold in blends of different fine fescue varieties. This approach creates a more resilient lawn by combining the strengths of each type. For example, creeping red fescue helps fill in bare spots, while chewings fescue provides good density.
When selecting your fescue seed, look for products that specify turf-type tall fescue or specific fine fescue varieties known for disease resistance and turf quality.
Planting Fescue Seed vs. Fescue Sod
You have two primary methods for establishing a fescue lawn: planting seed or laying sod. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.
Planting Fescue Seed
Planting fescue seed is generally more cost-effective, especially for larger areas. It allows you to choose the exact variety or blend you want and gives you more control over the germination process. However, it requires more patience and care during the fescue establishment phase.
- Pros: Lower cost, wider variety selection, good for large areas.
- Cons: Takes longer to establish, requires consistent moisture and protection from traffic during germination, more susceptible to weed competition.
Laying Fescue Sod
Fescue sod is pre-grown grass, typically sold in rolls or slabs. It provides an instant lawn, offering immediate visual appeal and a mature root system. This is a great option if you want quick results or have an event planned.
- Pros: Instant lawn, immediate visual appeal, faster establishment, fewer weed issues initially.
- Cons: Higher cost, less variety selection, sod needs to be laid quickly to prevent drying out, can be more challenging to get uniform moisture distribution initially.
For most DIYers, planting fescue seed is a very achievable and rewarding method. This guide will focus primarily on this approach, but many of the preparatory steps apply to sod installation as well.
Preparing Your Soil for Fescue
Proper fescue soil preparation is critical for successful fescue establishment. A well-prepared seedbed ensures good seed-to-soil contact and provides the nutrients and environment the young grass needs to thrive.
Step 1: Clear the Area
Remove any existing vegetation, rocks, debris, and weeds from the area you plan to seed. If you have a very weedy lawn, you might consider a non-selective herbicide to kill off everything before you begin. Be sure to follow the product’s label instructions carefully. Allow time for the herbicide to work and then clear the dead vegetation.
Step 2: Test Your Soil
A soil test is invaluable. It tells you the pH level and nutrient content of your soil. Fescue generally prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH, between 6.0 and 7.0. If your soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it can hinder nutrient uptake.
You can get a soil test kit from your local extension office or purchase one from a garden supply store. The results will recommend specific amendments needed to balance your soil.
Step 3: Loosen the Soil
The soil needs to be loosened to a depth of at least 4-6 inches. This allows the fescue roots to penetrate deeply, which is crucial for drought tolerance.
- For existing lawns: You can use a core aerator to loosen the soil and create holes for better seed penetration.
- For bare ground: Use a tiller or a garden fork and spade to break up compacted soil.
Step 4: Amend the Soil
Based on your soil test results, add amendments.
- Lime: If your soil is too acidic (low pH), lime will help raise it.
- Sulfur: If your soil is too alkaline (high pH), sulfur will help lower it.
- Compost or Organic Matter: This is almost always beneficial. It improves soil structure, drainage, and nutrient retention. Spread a 1-2 inch layer of compost over the loosened soil and gently work it in.
Step 5: Rake and Level
Rake the area smooth, removing any remaining clumps, rocks, or debris. Create a fine, even surface. A light rolling with a lawn roller can help settle the soil and remove any large air pockets, but don’t compact it too much. The goal is a firm but loose seedbed.
Planting Fescue Seed
With your soil prepared, it’s time to plant the fescue seed. Timing is crucial for fescue, as it’s a cool-season grass.
Best Time to Plant Fescue
The ideal time to plant fescue seed is in the fall, typically between August and October, when soil temperatures are still warm enough for germination, but air temperatures are cooling. This allows the young grass to establish a strong root system before winter.
Spring planting (March to May) is also possible, but the young grass will face the challenge of summer heat and potential drought shortly after germination. Fall planting generally leads to a more successful and vigorous lawn.
How Much Seed to Use?
Check the recommended seeding rate on your fescue seed packaging. This rate can vary depending on the type of fescue and whether you are starting a new lawn or overseeding.
- New Lawn: Typically 5-10 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.
- Overseeding: Typically 2-5 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet.
Using too much seed can lead to competition and weak grass. Using too little will result in thin coverage and more room for weeds.
Seeding Methods
- Broadcast Spreader: This is the most common method. Divide your seed into two equal amounts. Fill your spreader and calibrate it according to the manufacturer’s instructions for your seed rate. Spread the first half in one direction (e.g., north to south) and the second half at a 90-degree angle (e.g., east to west). This ensures even coverage.
- Drop Spreader: This method provides very precise application but can be slower. Ensure you overlap slightly at the edges of your passes to avoid missed strips.
Raking In the Seed
After broadcasting, lightly rake the seed into the top ¼ inch of soil. This is vital for good seed-to-soil contact. You want the seed to be covered, but not too deeply. A light drag with a leaf rake or a garden hoe works well. You can also use a roller again to press the seed into the soil.
Fescue Watering During Establishment
Proper watering is perhaps the most critical factor during fescue establishment. Young fescue seedlings are delicate and require consistent moisture to germinate and grow.
Initial Watering
Immediately after seeding, water the area thoroughly but gently. You want to moisten the soil to a depth of about 2-3 inches without washing away the seed. A fine spray from a hose or a sprinkler on a low setting is best.
Ongoing Watering
- Germination Phase (First 2-3 weeks): Keep the top ½ inch of soil consistently moist. This might mean watering lightly multiple times a day, especially in warm or windy weather. Avoid letting the soil dry out completely.
- Seedling Growth Phase (After germination): As seedlings grow, gradually reduce the frequency of watering but increase the duration. Water deeply to encourage roots to grow downwards. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, whether from rain or irrigation.
- Established Lawn: Once the grass is about 3 inches tall and you’ve mowed it a couple of times, you can transition to a more typical fescue lawn care watering schedule. Water deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth.
Table: Fescue Watering Schedule During Establishment
| Stage | Frequency | Duration/Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Just Seeded | Multiple times per day (as needed) | Light misting, keep top ½ inch moist | Avoid large puddles or washing away seed. |
| Germination | Once or twice a day, depending on temp. | Light misting, keep top ½ inch moist | Crucial for seed to sprout and get its first roots down. |
| Seedling Growth | 2-3 times per week | Water deeply, 1 inch total per week (combine with rain) | Aim to moisten soil 2-3 inches deep. Let soil surface dry slightly between waterings. |
| Established Lawn | 1-2 times per week | Water deeply, 1-1.5 inches total per week | Water in the morning to allow foliage to dry. Deep watering encourages strong roots. |
Fescue Fertilization
Fertilizing at the right time and with the right product is essential for healthy fescue growth.
Starter Fertilizer
When planting fescue seed, it’s highly recommended to use a starter fertilizer. These fertilizers have a higher phosphorus content, which is crucial for root development. Many soil tests will recommend phosphorus if it’s deficient.
Apply the starter fertilizer according to the package directions either just before seeding or immediately after seeding and lightly raking.
Ongoing Fertilization
Once your fescue lawn is established (typically after the first mowing and several weeks of growth), you can transition to a regular fescue lawn care fertilization schedule.
- Fall: This is the most important time to fertilize fescue. Apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer in early fall to help the grass store energy for winter and promote strong growth in the spring.
- Spring: A light application of nitrogen in the spring can help green up the lawn, but avoid excessive nitrogen, which can lead to weak, disease-prone growth.
- Summer: Avoid fertilizing during the heat of summer, as this can stress the grass.
Fescue Fertilization Schedule (General Guideline)
| Season | Fertilizer Type | Application Rate | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fall | Balanced N-P-K (e.g., 10-10-10) or high N (e.g., 20-0-10) | As recommended on bag (typically 1 lb N per 1000 sq ft) | Crucial for root development and winter hardiness. |
| Spring | Balanced N-P-K or slightly higher N | As recommended on bag (lighter application than fall) | Helps with spring green-up. Avoid over-fertilization. |
| Summer | Avoid fertilizing during extreme heat | N/A | Can stress the lawn. Water deeply if you must fertilize. |
| Starter | High Phosphorus (e.g., 10-20-10) | As recommended on bag | Applied at planting time to promote root growth. |
Always follow the fertilizer manufacturer’s instructions for application rates and timing.
Fescue Mowing
Proper fescue mowing practices are key to maintaining a healthy, dense lawn and preventing common problems like thatch buildup and weed intrusion.
Mowing Height
The ideal mowing height for most fescue varieties is 2.5 to 3.5 inches. Taller mowing heights offer several benefits:
- Shade Control: Taller grass shades the soil, suppressing weed seeds from germinating.
- Drought Tolerance: Longer blades encourage deeper root growth, making the lawn more resilient to dry periods.
- Disease Resistance: Helps prevent certain fungal diseases.
Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade’s length at any single mowing. This stresses the grass and can lead to thinning.
Mowing Frequency
Mow as often as necessary to maintain the desired height. During peak growth periods (spring and fall), you might need to mow more frequently than in summer or winter.
Blade Sharpness
Always use a sharp mower blade. Dull blades tear the grass, leaving ragged edges that are prone to disease and browning. Sharpen your blades at least once or twice a year.
Mulching Clippings
Leave the grass clippings on the lawn (mulching). They decompose, returning valuable nutrients and organic matter to the soil, acting as a natural fertilizer. Ensure the clippings are fine; if they are clumpy, you may have cut the grass too long.
Fescue Overseeding
Fescue overseeding is the process of sowing new seed into an existing lawn. It’s an excellent way to thicken a thinning lawn, improve its appearance, and introduce more disease-resistant varieties.
When to Overseed Fescue
The best time to overseed fescue is in the fall, coinciding with the optimal time for planting new fescue lawns. This allows the new seed to germinate and establish before the heat of summer.
How to Overseed Fescue
- Mow and Dethatch: Mow the existing lawn to about 1.5 to 2 inches. Then, dethatch the lawn if there’s more than ½ inch of thatch. This is crucial for ensuring good seed-to-soil contact. You can rent a dethatcher or use a power rake.
- Aerate: Aerate the lawn if it’s compacted. This creates small holes in the soil that help the seed penetrate and improve air and water circulation.
- Apply Seed: Use a spreader to apply your chosen fescue seed at the recommended rate for overseeding (typically 2-5 pounds per 1,000 square feet).
- Rake: Lightly rake the seed into the soil to ensure good seed-to-soil contact.
- Fertilize: Apply a starter fertilizer specifically designed for new grass or overseeding.
- Water: Keep the seeded areas consistently moist until the new grass is established, following the watering guidelines for new lawns.
Common Fescue Lawn Care Challenges and Solutions
Even with diligent planting, you might encounter some common issues.
Weeds
- Prevention: A healthy, dense fescue lawn is the best defense against weeds. Proper mowing, watering, and fertilization help.
- Control: For young seedlings, hand-pulling is often the safest option. Once established, you can use pre-emergent herbicides in the spring to prevent annual weeds and post-emergent herbicides for existing weeds, but always choose products safe for fescue.
Diseases
Fescue can be susceptible to various fungal diseases, especially in hot, humid conditions.
- Rust: Causes yellow or orange powdery patches on the blades. Often indicates low nitrogen levels. Fertilize in the fall.
- Dollar Spot: Small, straw-colored patches about the size of a silver dollar. Requires consistent moisture and proper fertilization.
- Red Thread: Pinkish-red threads on the grass blades. Usually a sign of low nitrogen or unfavorable weather.
Choosing disease-resistant fescue varieties is the first line of defense. Maintaining proper lawn care practices, including adequate watering and fertilization, will also help prevent most fungal issues.
Grubs
Grubs are the larvae of Japanese beetles and other pests that feed on grass roots, causing brown patches that can be easily pulled up like a carpet.
- Identification: Dig up a small section of affected turf. If you find C-shaped white grubs, you likely have a grub problem.
- Treatment: Apply a grub control product specifically labeled for lawns. Timing is crucial; treatments are most effective when grubs are actively feeding near the surface.
Frequently Asked Questions About Planting Fescue
Q1: How long does it take for fescue seed to germinate?
Fescue seed typically germinates in 7 to 21 days, depending on soil temperature, moisture, and the specific fescue variety.
Q2: Can I plant fescue seed in the summer?
It is generally not recommended to plant fescue seed in the summer. Fescue is a cool-season grass, and the heat and potential drought of summer can severely stress or kill young seedlings. Fall is the ideal planting time.
Q3: How often should I water a new fescue lawn?
During the germination phase (first 2-3 weeks), keep the top ½ inch of soil consistently moist. This may mean watering lightly multiple times a day. As the grass grows, gradually water less frequently but more deeply.
Q4: When should I mow fescue for the first time after seeding?
Wait until the new fescue grass reaches a height of about 3 inches. Use a mower with a sharp blade and set it to the highest setting (around 3-3.5 inches). Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade’s height at once.
Q5: Is fescue hard to maintain?
Once established, fescue is considered a relatively low-maintenance grass, especially tall fescue. It’s drought-tolerant and can withstand a good amount of wear. Fine fescues require a bit more attention to shade and moisture.
By following these comprehensive steps, you’ll be well on your way to establishing a beautiful and resilient fescue lawn that you can enjoy for years to come. Happy planting!